Winter rafting in northern Michigan showcases season's beauty

The quiet is the first thing you notice. Next come small sounds: the tiny rippling from the river, the droplets falling off the paddle, the wind in the snow-laden white pines along the banks.

The Jordan River, a designated Wild Scenic River, is the ideal spot for a winter rafting excursion. Such trips are on the rise as outdoor enthusiasts seek new experiences beyond skiing and snowshoeing. And the Great Lakes region, with its myriad waterways, makes this a sure thing when snowfalls are inadequate for skiing or snowmobiling.

Jordan Valley Outfitters, based in East Jordan, is one of a couple of firms -- another is Big Bear Adventures in Indian River -- that make the trip a breeze. It's more than a breeze, in fact, it has been called a meditation.

But for most people, the idea of being on a river in the chill of winter is far short of relaxing.

First, know this: You won't get wet.

But you need to dress warm to stay warm on this two-hour excursion. After all, this is winter, and you're on the water.

Once you reserve your spot, owner Scott Harper handles the details, equipping rafters with life jackets and snowshoes for a stop and hike midway along the river. He and his wife, Kay, transport passengers and the raft by van to a spot on the river from their tiny retail outlet facing Lake Charlevoix.

Press New Service photo/Kim SchneiderA snowshoe hike in pristine, untraveled woods, is an optional add-on to a winter rafting trip down the Jordan River.

"We've found about two hours is enough exposure to the beauty of the snow-covered trees and the river," Scott Harper said. "You don't have to be out here all day to get a taste of it."

The company uses distinctive blue whitewater rafts whose bottoms are reinforced and sealed so water doesn't seep in. Once rafters are seated with paddles in hand, the vessels are launched and the journey begins. Sometimes, Harper regales passengers with tales of other trips, sometimes he paddles quietly. Other times, he asks for paddling assistance as he maneuvers the bends and fallen trees along the river.

"The river is ever-changing in the winter," Harper said. "A shelf of ice will develop and narrow the rapids. The next week, it's gone, and the current is more gentle."

At a stop along the way, we disembark to stretch. Harper lights a propane heater, makes hot chocolate or tea, and passes out snacks. A snowshoe hike follows. (Rafters determine the distance they want to hike.)

But the most memorable part of the trip is the rafting. Deer come to the water's edge to drink or watch as the raft silently passes. A squirrel scampers through the snow and up a tree. A stand of pines forms a circle around a small clearing like an outdoor chapel.

It's Michigan, in all its quiet winter beauty.

Up the Sturgeon River

Ice crystals twinkle like diamonds in the sunlight as they float down the Sturgeon River. Scott Anderson, owner of Big Bear Adventures in Indian River, assures passengers that none of the rafts on his guided tours has ever flipped.