Mark Bickerdike finds that the Swiss know how to do a ski holiday with style.

It’s a very long time ago now but I can still vividly remember my first ever ski trip.

It was a school trip to Spain where the hotel (for want of a better word) redefined the word ‘basic’.

We were crammed in six to a room on bunk beds and had to answer to stern faced hotel maids Cecelia and Begonia should any one of our rabble step out of line.

How times change.

My latest excursion to the mountains saw me cosseted in the swanky Swiss resort of Crans Montana living the high life of five-star personal service in a picture-book luxury lodge whilst dining at a Michelin star restaurant, and also enjoying some traditional Swiss hospitality in the little village of Champoussin.

Champoussin may well be like many other small villages in the Swiss Alps, stunning views of the mountains with traditional architecture, a few farms, with a smattering of bars and restaurants. What Champoussin does have however is access to the largest linked ski area in the world the Portes du Soleil.

A massive 650 km of skiing awaits visitors linking five resorts in Switzerland to nine in France, they say it is possible to ski from one end of the area to the other and back in a day but you need to be a pretty decent skier.

We didn’t manage to ski the whole area but we did take in Champery and Les Crosets before venturing over the French border into the largest resort in the Portes du Soleil, Avoriaz.

As you might imagine for an area with so many runs (around 280) it’s easy for skiers of most abilities to get around with easy blue and green runs, and more difficult red runs giving good access for all.

It was one particular black run, however, that I was really looking forward to reacquainting myself with.

On a previous visit to Avoriaz I’d stood at the top of the La Chavanette, or The Swiss Wall as it’s also known, with its apparently vertical cliff-face start and chest high moguls and wondered why anyone in the right mind would even consider venturing down. Yet here I was a few years, and a few ski lessons later, actually contemplating launching myself over the edge. But launch I did and once the first few turns were made I found it was not nearly a scary as it looked, isn’t that always the way.

For the very brave there is an annual race to ski ‘the wall’ with the best time set at an insane 20 seconds by extreme skier Dominique Perret. Our time was a much more sedate three or four minutes but no less satisfying a challenge for that.

Stirred, but not too shaken, we headed back to Champoussin where the ‘wellness’ centre at our hotel, the Alpadze lou kra, beckoned.

Wellness is big in the Alps and there can be no better way of relaxing after a day on the slopes than a dip in the swimming pool followed by the steam room and sauna.

The next stop on our journey was the upmarket resort of Crans Montana. A trip of only 50 miles or so but notable for the seemingly endless fields of vineyards lining the road and hillsides. It’s a little known fact that Switzerland produces some very good wine but very little is exported as the Swiss manage to drink most of it themselves.

Crans Montana has long been a haunt of Brits seeking some winter fun in the mountains. Indeed it was two such men, Arnold Lunn and General Roberts of Kandahar, who are credited with creating the first official downhill ski race in January 1911, with winter sports pioneer Lunn organising the ten man field for the hour-long descent. To this day the town is still a regular stop on the Alpine World Cup ski circuit.

I don’t recall ever skiing in a resort which has a Louis Vuitton shop in the town centre but that just about sets the tone for Crans Montana, and our accommodation the Crans Luxury Lodges reinforced the feel that this is no ordinary ski resort.

We stayed in one of the five lodges with five sumptuous en-suite bedrooms, living room, kitchen, jacuzzi and sauna, and with fresh breakfast delivered to you door daily it was like living the film-star life, maybe that’s why former James Bond Roger Moore chose to live in the town.

Up on the slopes you’ll find a healthy 140 km of excellent if not too challenging skiing, ideal for intermediates, rising to a height of 2900 metres at the worryingly named Plaine Morte where the views are truly spectacular. It definitely has the feel of a resort that has evolved over many years rather than being created.

Off the slopes you’ll find shops aplenty and those looking for a place to eat will be spoilt for choice. Whether you fancy a simple traditional ‘raclette’ (or melted cheese and potatoes to you and me), or really treat yourself and try the Hostellerie du Pas de l’Ours where the Michelin starred chef Franck Reynaud and his team will tempt you with such delights as Terrine of foie gras in spiced wine with dried fruits, Reindeer fillet baked with spices, and Chocolate sorbet with cardamom. Personally I’m usually more of a cheese and potatoes man but even I have to admit that the Restaurant Gastronomique l’Ours is a little bit special.

So the choice is yours, two very different resorts both with a great deal to offer, the dedicated ‘piste-hound’ would probably not look further than the draw of the Portes du Soleil and its almost limitless skiing, but those looking for that something special will definitely find that in Crans Montana. Better still, go for two weeks and try both.

TRAVELFACTS:

* SWISS operates daily flights from London Heathrow, London City, Birmingham and Manchester to Zurich. Fares start from £115. * return, including all airport taxes. (*Please note this is a leading fare and is subject to change, availability and may not be available on all flights. Terms and conditions apply.) For reservations call 0845 601 0956 or visit: www.swiss.com

* The Swiss Travel System provides a dedicated range of travel passes and tickets exclusively for visitors from abroad. The Swiss Transfer Ticket covers a round-trip between the airport/Swiss border and your destination. Prices are £95 in second class and £145 in first class. Children under 16 years accompanied by at least one parent travel free.

* For the ultimate Swiss rail specialist call Switzerland Travel Centre on 00800 100 200 30 or visit www.swisstravelsystem.co.uk.

* Portes du Soleil: Hotel Alpadze lou kra, Champoussin from 80 Swiss Francs per night – www.alpadze-loukra.ch/index.php/fr/tarifs/tarifs-hiver.html

* Lift pass prices from 48 Swiss francs (adult), 36 Swiss francs (children up to 15), 43 Swiss francs (teenagers 16-19 and seniors over 64)

* Crans-Montana: Crans Luxury Lodges, Crans-Montana – http://www.cransluxurylodges.com/bookings/prices 1 week from CHF 4400

* Lift passes Crans-Montana: 1 day CHF 62 (adults) CHF 31 (children) – www.tourism-crans-montana.co.uk/index.php?xopen=menu_page_7c6e67f2f0baf4530bdc38909938556f

* Crans-Montana: Gold fever. This year, Crans-Montana has a spectacular offer, with -33% off the price displayed in many hotels, chalets or apartments and including ski passes during the following periods: 3 – 24 December 2011, 7 January -11 February 2012, 10 March – 6 April 2012 – http://gold-fever.ch/en/home. The Crans Luxury Lodges is partner of this promotion.