ASPEN — Harvey T. Carter's nickname gives a pretty good indication of
the kind
of guy he was, according to former
colleagues on the Aspen
Mountain Ski Patrol.
Carter was called “Balls” when he worked on the mountain in the late 1960s and
'70s.
“That name applied all around,” said Gene Clausen, who worked on
the Aspen Mountain ski patrol from
1968 until he retired last November. “It
didn't matter what it was.”
Carter was a legendary rock climber who
achieved a remarkable number of first ascents on all sorts of terrain — from
red-rock spires surrounding Moab and in other parts of the Utah desert to the
alpine cliffs of Independence Pass and Glenwood Canyon.
He hucked cliffs
and sailed off rocks long before marketing machines started hyping extreme
skiing.
Carter died Tuesday in a hospice in Colorado Springs after a long
battle with prostate cancer, according to Cameron Burns, of Basalt, a climber
who became friends with Carter in 1994. Climbing blogs listed Carter's age as
81.
“He was a tough, tough guy,” Burns said. They first met when Burns
was a reporter at The Aspen Times in 1994. Burns was an avid and accomplished
desert climber, often setting his sights on obscure spires, including some on
Navajo lands — similar to what Carter had done 30-some years earlier. Carter was
known for first ascents of three of the four famed spires at Fisher Towers,
northeast of Moab on River Road. Another of Carter's first ascents was on
Priest, another famous formation close to Castle Valley.
“A lot of people
associate him with first ascents of thousands of routes,” Burns
said.
Carter contacted Burns in 1994, following a pattern he long
established in Aspen and elsewhere. He was known for aligning with young
climbers that showed promise and sharing his experience. After they met, Burns
took him to Independence Pass for a climb that he figured would be challenging
but not imposing for the 63-year-old man.
“You've got to be in good shape
to haul your butt up a 5.10 (-rated climb),” Burns said. “Harvey just powered up
it.”
Carter grew up in Colorado Springs and started climbing in 1949,
according to a 2008 article in the Colorado Springs Gazette. He was well-known
and influential among climbers there. He joined the Aspen Mountain ski patrol in
1957, the Gazette article said, and spent summers traveling and climbing. He
founded Climbing Magazine in May 1970 and sold it after two years to the late
Bil Dunaway, former owner and publisher of The Aspen Times.
One of the
young Aspen-area climbers Carter mentored in the late 1960s and early '70s was
Lou Dawson, who went on to become a famous ski mountaineer and member of the
Colorado Ski and Snowboard Hall of Fame. Dawson said they met while climbing
routes along Independence Pass. The climbing community was small and tight then,
so meeting someone of Carter's stature was easy.
“He was quite a
visionary,” Dawson said. He was fond of attacking small, challenging climbs that
didn't require much more gear than carabiners. That was way ahead of its time
but something very popular now.
He also made life as a climbing bum
attractive. While many people would take short, intense climbing vacations,
Carter spent all possible time climbing.
“He really made it a lifestyle
thing for a long, long time,” Dawson said. “He was a very special man. He meant
a lot to me in my life.”
Michael Kennedy, an accomplished climber, author
and former editor of Climbing Magazine, was another youth who learned from
Carter. They made the first ascent of the International Route, the longest line
in Glenwood Canyon, in 1975.
“He took me out and taught me a lot,”
Kennedy said.
Carter was up for any challenge, according to Kennedy. He
never bailed, even when routes proved more difficult than imagined.
“You
never really knew what you were getting into,” Kennedy said. Sometimes Carter
would find a gem of a climbing route in rock surrounded by woods. Other times
they would be “thrashing about” on an incredible wicked route, he
said.
Persistence and a sense of adventure were Carter's trademarks. “He
was super into doing new routes,” Kennedy said.
Other Carter trademarks
were his rough edges and temper.
“The thing about Harvey that was
intimidating was his gruff demeanor,” Dawson said. “He wasn't, like, Mr. Nice
Guy.”
Carter once set equipment on a route on Gold Butte, along the Rio
Grande Trail near Aspen. Being young, energetic and cocky, Dawson used that
equipment for a first ascent, breaking an unwritten rule of climbing. “He almost
beat me up,” Dawson said.
They didn't speak for years. But when Dawson
broke his leg skiing a difficult backcountry line on the back of Aspen Mountain
a couple of years later, Carter organized a rescue after the ski area had
closed, possibly saving Dawson's life.
Clausen remembered Carter being
tough as nails as a ski patroller, though he wasn't a large man. Carter was
notorious for being late. One time he got in a road-rage situation with another
motorist as he was driving to a parking lot below Lift 1 in Aspen. Carter parked
and scrambled to punch in at the time clock. He had been warned several times
not to be tardy. The other motorist also exited his vehicle and was punching
away, bloodying Carter with each swing, Clausen recalled. Carter was just trying
to swat his attacker off like a fly; he was focused on getting to
work.
“Balls” was an appropriate nickname for the way Carter skied the
mountain, as Clausen learned when he transferred from Buttermilk to Aspen in
1968.
“He had been on (the patrol) for quite a while and already had a
hell of a reputation,” Clausen said. He soon learned why. Carter loved to take a
40-foot drop off a cliff in a glade off the Kristi trail. He constantly tried to
get other patrollers to take the plunge with him on powder days.
Clausen
capitulated once. He remembers looking down on the tops of trees and thinking he
was going to die. He made the leap successfully.
Carter was also famous
for skiing off what is still called Harvey's Rock by the patrol. It's visible
from the Ajax Express chair, along the former lift line.
Carter got
canned in 1979 for skiing closed areas of the mountain, which are now open to
the public. He couldn't resist skiing portions of the Dumps despite the
prohibition, Clausen recalled.
Carter married once and had two children,
but no specific information about his family was available. Burns said a
memorial service is being planned for April in Colorado Springs.